Toronto Appliance Repair

The cost depends on the appliance type, the nature of the problem, and the OEM parts needed. Every job starts with our flat $149.95 diagnostic; you then receive a firm quote before any repair begins. Call (416) 639-9747 to book.

We weigh the appliance's age and condition against the repair cost. Repair is frequently more economical when the machine isn't old and the failed parts are simple — thermal fuses, igniters, pumps, belts.

We provide same-day or next-day diagnostic appointments across Toronto and the GTA. Call or text early in the morning to reserve an immediate scheduling window; emergencies like a refrigerator not cooling or an active leak get priority.

Yes. Service is performed by a certified, fully licensed and insured technician — including WSIB coverage for high-rise work — with Red Seal, 313A, TSSA, and ODP credentials.

Yes, we provide fully insured, WSIB-compliant stacked washer and dryer repairs with $2 million liability insurance, so condominium servicing is safe for homeowners and property managers alike.

Yes, every repair is backed by a 90-day warranty covering both labour and the OEM replacement parts we supply and install. If the same issue returns within the warranty period, contact us and we resolve it at no charge.

We mainly use OEM parts to guarantee quality and compatibility. Where availability or your budget calls for it, we can also offer quality aftermarket components.

Clear the space around the appliance for easy access, and have the model number handy if you can. If the ice maker is the problem, empty the freezer before your appointment.

We accept cash, credit cards (Visa, MasterCard, American Express), debit cards, and e-transfers.

We serve the City of Toronto — Downtown, North York, Scarborough, East York, and Etobicoke — plus Mississauga, Brampton, Vaughan, Markham, and Richmond Hill across the GTA.

We service all major brands, including Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Frigidaire, KitchenAid, Electrolux, GE, Samsung, LG, Amana, Inglis, Dacor, and Bosch, plus luxury lines such as Sub-Zero, Wolf, Thermador, and Miele.

A defrost failure requires checking the frost pattern on the evaporator. We perform multimeter continuity testing on the bimetal defrost thermostat and heater. If the coils are frozen, we melt the ice barrier and verify 120V to the evaporator fan motor (WPW10314173) to ensure circulation is restored.

Common causes: a clogged defrost drain (water ends up on the freezer floor and then your kitchen floor), a broken water valve on ice-maker models, a leaking door gasket causing condensation, or a cracked dispenser line.

Clicking from a Sub-Zero dual-compressor system means the thermal overload is tripping because the start relay failed. We tear down the PTC start device, check for internal ceramic fractures, measure start amperage, and replace the relay block.

Typical culprits: a failed water inlet valve, broken sensor switches, worn mechanical parts, or an ice-maker module that needs replacement.

Bin rails, dispenser paddles, lights, door switches, crispers, and door handles all wear out with daily use — we carry or source OEM replacements for each.

The 5C or 5E fault indicates a drainage blockage or drain pump motor failure. We clean the filter trap of foreign objects and measure resistance on the pump stator windings to resolve the fault.

Usual causes: a clogged or broken drain pump (no drain means no spin cycle), a door or lid switch that doesn't register closed, a snapped belt, a seized motor, or — less often — a control-board fault.

A faulty pressure switch or sensor, a clogged or dead water-valve solenoid, a timer or control-board issue, or a door/lid switch problem can each stop the fill.

Check for a ripped or pinched door gasket, a cracked hose or drain-pump housing, a leaking water-valve housing, loose fill hoses, or a clogged dispenser overflowing.

Kenmore top-load washers shaking violently during spin require a manual press-down bounce test. If the tub continues bouncing past one oscillation, the dampening spring cartridges inside the suspension rods have failed, requiring replacement of all four rods to restore balance.

The user manual usually explains each code and the first steps to try. No manual? Look up your model number (on a sticker behind the door or lid) together with the code, or text us the code and we'll interpret it.

Likely causes: a broken heating element, a thermostat or sensor fault, a switch or control-board issue, broken wiring, or — on gas models — a faulty igniter or gas valve.

A broken door switch (the dryer can't tell the door is closed), a failed start switch, a snapped or slipped belt tripping the belt switch, or an internal fuse needing replacement.

A worn rear bearing, worn front glides, a flattened belt roller, or a failing motor bearing (often not worth repairing on its own — we'll advise honestly).

A clogged vent inside or outside the home, a weakening heating element, a timer or control fault, or a thermostat/sensor issue. Restricted airflow is the most common — and the most dangerous.

Most manuals decode them per brand. If yours is missing, search the model number (sticker behind the dryer door) with the code, or send it to us by text and we'll tell you what it means.

A broken bake, broil, or convection element; a faulty thermostat, fuse, or sensor; a control-board or key-panel fault; or, on gas models, an igniter or gas valve that needs replacement.

The touch membrane, control panel assembly, or control board may need replacement, or a fuse or loose connection is interrupting the panel.

A faulty radiant or induction element, a broken element switch, or — on gas stoves — a failed igniter or spark module.

A stuck mechanical latch, failed latch switches, a blown fuse or safety thermostat, or a control-board issue. Don't pry the door; the glass can shatter. We release it safely.

Reset the breaker first. Beyond that: an internal fuse or safety thermostat, a control-board fault, or a burnt wire can each kill power.

Slow heating points to a weak bake element or igniter, a failing gas valve, a thermostat, or the board. Any gas smell: shut the supply valve, open a window, and call a TSSA-licensed technician immediately.

A clogged drain hose, a blocked sink or garburator spigot, a broken drain pump, or debris jammed in the pump impeller.

The Bosch E15 code triggers when water collects in the safety pan at the dishwasher base. We dry the float switch pan, check the water inlet valve, and locate micro-leaks in the sump seal or circulation pump.

A faulty membrane, a control panel that needs replacement, or a broken door-latch switch that blocks input.

Reset the house breaker first; otherwise an internal fuse, loose or burnt connectors at the junction box, or a control-board fault is interrupting power.

Usually something hard stuck in the drain pump — a cherry pit, olive pit, or small bone — or a failing wash motor or water-valve solenoid.

A clogged water-valve screen, a broken water valve, a door latch or switch issue (the machine thinks the door is open), or a control-board problem.

A clogged filter, a weak water valve underfilling the tub, blocked spray-arm jets, or dirty water not draining fully between cycles.

Upper-rack rails and gliders and the wash/spray arms are the usual wear items; all are inexpensive OEM replacements we stock.